Why do energy-saving lamps burn out quickly? Why do energy-saving lamps burn out? Is it worth repairing energy-saving lamps?

Long gone are the days when only incandescent lamps, popularly called “Ilyich bulbs,” were used for lighting. Today, in any department of electrical goods, in addition to the “classics”, you can see a huge number of energy-saving, halogen and LED lamps, differing in power and size, shape of flasks and cartridges.

The efficiency and cost-effectiveness of this product are truly pleasing, but the service life still leaves much to be desired. Therefore, the question of why a light bulb burns out remains relevant.

Lamp selection

In addition to external factors, such as faulty wiring, voltage surges, and so on, which directly affect the service life of lamps, the technologies used to produce them also play an important role. The fact is that the algorithm various types lamps are different, which determines their working life. When selecting lighting fixtures, you must first of all pay attention to their specifications to understand how well and how long a particular light source will work.

Incandescent lamps

These products are produced in the form of sealed glass flasks filled with vacuum or inert gas. The flask contains a tungsten spiral, which, when heated under the influence of electric current, emits light and heat. The level of light output and the service life of incandescent lamps depend on the temperature of the heated filament.

As the temperature rises, the brightness increases, but because of this, tungsten evaporates faster, forming a mirror coating on the inner surface of the bulb. Because of this, the intensity of the luminous flux is reduced. Over time, the tungsten spiral becomes thinner and at a certain point melts in the thinnest place. That's why a light bulb burns out. The average service life of incandescent lamps is 1000 hours.

Halogen lamps

The operating principle of this type of power supply is practically no different from the functioning of incandescent lamps. The only difference is the presence of small halogen additives (chlorine, iodine, bromine, fluorine) in the filler gas, which prevent clouding of the flask. Tungsten, evaporating from the spiral, moves to the walls of the flask, where the temperature is lower than near the spiral. There it comes into contact with halogen and, in the form of a tungsten-halogen compound, moves back to the hot coil, where it disintegrates. This process helps to restore part of the tungsten, due to which such lamps can last about 4000 hours.

The only reason why light bulbs of this type often burn out, especially new ones, is non-compliance with the rules for their installation. The fact is that it is strictly not recommended to touch the surface of the flask with your fingers. The greasy imprint left behind, baked on the glass, provokes the formation of cracks and premature failure of the lamp. Install halogen lamps should be done using packaging film or a dry, clean cloth. If fingerprints are left, they must be thoroughly erased.

Energy saving (compact fluorescent) lamps

The bulb of such lamps contains tungsten electrodes coated with a mixture of calcium, barium and strontium oxides. An inert gas with a small amount of mercury vapor is used as a filler. The inner surface of the flask is coated with phosphor. This special substance converts ultraviolet radiation generated under the influence of voltage into ordinary light.

Such lamps are characterized by minimal energy consumption, efficiency, reliability and long term service amounting to 8000 hours. Before the advent of LED lighting, they were very popular among consumers. Although many people wondered why light bulbs in an apartment quickly burn out if they are designed for such a long service life. This is due to the fact that these devices do not tolerate frequent switching on/off. In other words, the harder the owner tries to save energy and the life of the lamp, the faster it fails. Another reason why an energy-saving light bulb burns out is the same fingerprints left by the user when screwing it in.

LED bulbs

These lighting fixtures use LEDs as light sources. These lamps have neither glass bulbs nor filaments. They have a number of undeniable advantages that the above options do not have, namely:

• economical energy consumption;
• compact dimensions;
• no heating effect during operation;
• huge working resource (25,000-100,000 hours);
• availability of standard cartridges;
• environmental friendliness (the design contains no harmful or dangerous components);
• resistance to low temperatures;
• the presence of a radiation spectrum close to natural;
• no flicker;
• no need for high voltage.

The enormous service life of such lighting devices is due to the fact that there are no filaments in them, therefore, there is nothing to burn out. However, they, unfortunately, do not last forever. This is explained by the fact that such products are manufactured using the most simplified technology, which involves the use of a simple ballast converter, while long-term operation can be ensured by a full-fledged electronic adapter.

At the moment the lamp is ignited, the ballast converter is not able to cope with a powerful surge of current, passing it to the LEDs. Due to such throws, the crystals and the phosphor covering them are quickly destroyed. Considering that rated current may exceed the required figure by 1.5 times, it is not difficult to understand why the LED light bulb burned out.

External factors affecting the service life of lighting fixtures

Of course, the operating rules, quality and working life of each type of lamp are directly related to their service life. However, there are many third-party reasons that affect the “life” of lighting fixtures. The most common negative external factors include, for example, voltage surges, emergency wiring, faulty switches and sockets, etc. Below we will look at why light bulbs in a chandelier often burn out and what are the methods for solving this problem.

Unstable voltage

Unfortunately, the quality of voltage in domestic power grids is very far from ideal. Due to frequent and strong changes, not only light bulbs fail, but also household appliances. High voltage is the most common reason why chandelier bulbs burn out. Incandescent lamps especially often suffer from this. There are two ways to protect yourself from this scourge: choose the right lamps or stabilize the voltage.

Most often in stores you can find incandescent lamps designed for a voltage of 220-230 V. If there are frequent surges, it is recommended to look for 230-240-volt light sources. Another solution would be to replace incandescent lamps with fluorescent devices, which are not affected by increased voltage. The ideal solution is the installation suitable model voltage stabilizer. This device can protect not only lamps, but also household appliances from burning out.

Poor quality cartridges

If you are wondering why a light bulb burns out in the same lamp, the problem most likely lies in the socket. If it is ceramic, you just need to clean the contacts. But most often, cartridges are made of plastic, and not always of high quality. Such products are designed for lamps whose power does not exceed 40 W. If you screw in the lamp more power, the plastic cartridge will quickly begin to crack, and the contacts will burn. As a result, the lamp will become hotter and eventually burn out.

A damaged plastic cartridge must be replaced, preferably with a ceramic model.

Broken switch

Burnt contacts in the switch can also cause frequent lamp burnouts. In this case, you need to disassemble and remove the switch, clean all contacts and ensure their reliable connection. If the switch has obvious defects in the form of melting at the contact connections, it is better to replace it. Instead of a regular switch, you can install a dimmer, which will allow you to adjust the brightness of the lighting while protecting the lamps from power surges.

Bad contacts

Unreliable connection of the chandelier wires, weak contacts on the apartment panel or in the distribution box - all this will affect the service life of not only the lamps, but also all electrical equipment in the apartment. A periodic review of all contacts will help you avoid trouble. Aluminum contacts require special attention, since due to the softness of this metal they spontaneously loosen.

Unlike conventional incandescent lamps, energy-saving lamps have certain advantages: they consume several times less electricity, their service life is quite long, and the light is very bright. Currently, most apartments, office and industrial premises are equipped with these lamps. This choice is justified because the energy savings are very significant.

However, a rather unpleasant situation often happens when an energy-saving lamp fails. Usually its lifespan is 8 thousand hours of work, but it may not even reach its full service life. It's a shame because it's not cheap. However, you should not despair, since the energy-saving lamp can be repaired. That's why It’s better not to throw away burnt-out copies, because from several faulty lamps you can assemble one working one with your own hands. So how to repair energy-saving lamps yourself?

Such a lighting device consists of the following elements:

• gas discharge flask;
• ballast;
• base

The gas discharge flask can be spiral or U-shaped. Inside it is coated with phosphor, and two spirals are soldered into its ends. If there is any damage on the surface of the bulb, for example, cracks, darkened areas or chips, then such a lamp can no longer be repaired. All other types of faults can be repaired yourself.

The causes of failure of an energy-saving lighting device may be:

• electronic ballast malfunction;
• burnout of one of the filaments.

Before starting repairs, it is necessary to disassemble the lamp and find out the cause of the problem. This is done as follows:

• It is necessary to disconnect the flask from the base.

This action must be performed very carefully so as not to damage the base. The lamp elements are connected to each other by latches, such as mobile phone or remote control remote control. It is best to use a screwdriver that has a thin and wide blade. One of the latches is usually located in the place where the lamp parameters are marked. The screwdriver must be inserted into the slot and, turning carefully, push the halves apart. Then the screwdriver should be pushed further in a circular motion until the lamp separates into two parts, and then the bulb and base are disconnected. The wires that come from the base are very short and from sudden movement they may break off.

• After this, disconnect the wires that go to the filaments.

2 pairs of conductors extend from the bulb - these are the filaments. To check their functionality, they should be disconnected. Usually they are not soldered, but wound on wire pins in several turns, so it will be quite easy to disconnect them.

• Check the performance of the filaments.

The flask usually contains two spirals having electrical resistance at 10−15 ohms. Their should be checked with a multimeter, determining which of them has burned out. If both threads are intact, then the problem is most likely in the ballast. But if one of the threads is burnt out, then the electronic ballast is fine.

Repair of an energy-saving lamp if the electronic ballast malfunctions

If the cause of a malfunction of an energy-saving lamp lies in the electronic ballast, then you should find all burnt out elements and clarify which parts can be used further. To find out the cause of the malfunction, the electronic board is inspected from all sides and its condition is visually determined: is there any mechanical damage, cracks, chips.

It is also necessary pay attention to the appearance of the elements, because you can detect burnt-out semiconductors, traces of burnt-out transformer windings, and swollen capacitors. If an external inspection of the board does not reveal any malfunctions, they begin checking the functionality of its main elements.

1. Fuse (limiting resistor). One end of such an element is soldered to the central contact of the base, and the other to the board. Basically, the fuse is located in a heat-shrinkable tube. If the resistor fails, it burns and tears everything apart electrical circuit . They call it using a multimeter: if the element is fixed, then the resistance is 10 Ohms, if it is faulty, then infinity (break).
2. Diode bridge. Such an element of an economical lamp usually has four diodes, and its duty is to rectify the 220 V network voltage. To check the diodes, it is not necessary to unsolder them, but should ring directly on the board. If they are in order, then the forward resistance of the p–n junction will be 750 Ohms, and the reverse will be equal to infinity. If the diode is faulty, its resistance will be open in both directions.
3. Filter capacitor. This element smoothes out the ripple of the rectified voltage. It mainly burns out in energy-saving lamps made in China. Before it burns out, the light bulb begins to work with various deviations: it hums, turns on poorly, and sometimes you can notice a slight blinking when turned off. Visually, the malfunction of this element is quite easy to notice. These may be streaks, swelling, darkening.
4. High voltage capacitor. Thanks to this element, a pulse is created that ensures the appearance of a discharge in the flask. Its breakdown is considered the most common cause of malfunction of energy-saving lamps. Such fault can be identified very easily: as a result of this, the lamp stops lighting, and in the area of ​​the electrodes you can observe a glow that is formed due to the heating of the filaments.

After this, you should check the serviceability of the remaining elements of the electronic board: diodes, transistors and resistors. Before checking Transistors must be unsoldered, because between their p−n junctions there are connections of resistors, diodes, etc., as a result of which the multimeter readings may be incorrect.

You should know that if one malfunction has been identified, then it is often possible to detect another, since basically it is not one element that burns out, but the entire circuit. Therefore, for an accurate result, use the following method.

On the working board, it is necessary to measure the resistance of the structural elements and compare them with the indicators of the non-working elements. This method avoids labor-intensive desoldering.

So, if one lamp has a damaged spiral, but the electronic circuit is intact, and the other has a damaged inductor, then do-it-yourself repair will consist of the following: connect the working ballast and a working bulb. Such components fit together if the lamps are the same. As a result, after repair, the lamp continues to work as before.

Repairing an energy-saving lamp with a faulty spiral

Another common cause of failure of an energy-saving lamp is burnt-out filaments. You can see for yourself that the coil has burned out. This is determined by appearance flasks - in this place the glass will be darkened. But it is still advisable to measure the resistance of the filaments. If one of the filaments burns out, the bulb can be thrown away and the electronic ballast can be used to repair other lamps. But this problem can also be fixed.

The repair consists of short-circuiting the leads of the burnt spiral. Of course, such a lamp after repair will not last so long, because only one filament will wear out.

However, such DIY lamp repair has a right to exist. First, disconnect and check the spirals for functionality using a multimeter. The burnt-out thread should be shunted with a resistor of the same value as the resistance of the normal thread. Shunting is necessary, because the circuit is broken and the lamp will not start without it. The resistance of a working filament is usually 4-5 ohms; to replace a burnt out filament, a 1-watt resistor with a nominal value of 5 ohms is best suited.

Energy-saving lamps have become so firmly established in the life of modern people that it is difficult to imagine an apartment or office without these lighting devices. They use electricity quite economically, but are quite expensive. If they fail, you can repair energy-saving lamps yourself. This will allow you to significantly save your money.

There is an energy-saving lamp in every home. Is there any harm, why do energy-saving lamps burn out or smell, what to do if the light bulb blinks, crackles or breaks in this article.

In this article we will consider the following questions:

Energy-saving lamps include lamps that operate on glow effects due to the luminescence of the phosphor and the emissivity of LEDs. They have a traditional design: a glass bulb mounted in a base (cartridge).

The action of the lamps is based on the launch of a gas-discharge process, causing the glow of the phosphor concentrated on the walls of the glass bulb of the lamp. The gas discharge process is called high voltage, acting on a gas environment consisting of inert gas and mercury vapor. This process is called avalanche emission of electrons from the cathode towards another electrode.

Modern energy-saving lamps do not require separate power sources, use the type of socket familiar to incandescent lamps, are technologically advanced and meet electrical safety requirements.

Why is an energy-saving light bulb harmful?

Due to the fact that the gaseous environment of a fluorescent lamp contains a certain amount of mercury vapor, as a result of which there is a danger of poisoning. Long-term human contact with mercury vapor and its chemical compounds ends in death, but it should also be understood that even short-term contact can cause poisoning and even a neurological disease - mercurialism.

Ultraviolet radiation comes out through the glass bulb of a fluorescent lamp, which can be dangerous for people with sensitive skin. Its danger lies in its effect on the eyes, damaging the retina and cornea.

The harm from energy-saving light bulbs lies in the danger of poisoning with mercury vapor and exposure to ultraviolet radiation on the cornea and retina.

Energy-saving light bulbs on the market are positioned not only as economical, but they are also more reliable than incandescent lamps. Included in fashion various devices, making life easier for people in the metropolis. These are backlit switches. If the illumination is provided by a neon lamp, then the lamp is constantly under voltage, which leads to its premature consumption and rapid failure.

Another reason that energy-saving lamps burn out quickly may be a closed lampshade or other enclosed space where ventilation is difficult. Answer the question: " Why do energy-saving light bulbs burn out? " Analysis of its switching circuit and voltage surges will also allow. As they say, nothing lasts forever.

Why do energy-saving lamps smell or stink?

A foreign odor from an energy-saving lamp may be due to the heating of its plastic elements. The semiconductor elements of the power supply, located in the base of the lamp, operate in key mode. This is the most energy-heavy mode of operation of switching elements - transistors. The transistors on the board are located without heatsinks, heat dissipation is minimal, through a plastic case. Therefore, the odor may come from the plastic elements used in the electric lamp.

If an odor is detected, the source should be thoroughly examined. Because the smell can be caused not only by the lamp, but also by the socket in which it is inserted, and the insulation of the supply wires. The element that produces the odor must be replaced with a new, serviceable one. It is important to know that the socket into which the light bulb is inserted also has a limitation on the power of the inserted load. This load should never be exceeded.

There are also cases where the source of the odor was the varnish that was used to cover the circuit board of the lamp power supply. This is evidence of dishonesty of the lamp manufacturer, who decided to use an inappropriate element in the product. To avoid this, it is necessary to monitor the standards on the lamp packaging that the lamps must comply with. The more standards a lamp meets, the better. A lamp that emits an unpleasant odor should be replaced.

The smell from energy-saving light bulbs should prompt a search for a possible source of fire. Serviceable elements operate with virtually no odor.

Why do energy-saving lamps that are turned off blink?

The blinking of electric lamps is clearly visible at night or in a dark room. These are noticeable flashes of light with a frequency of approximately once per second. Here the problem may also be hidden in the backlit switch. The problem does not exist on switches that do not have such backlighting.

The reason is this. Every energy saving lamp has a capacitor that runs the lamp. When the switch is turned off, its LED backlight is on. This means that a small electric current passes through it (from the mains and through our energy-saving lamp).

It is this small flowing current that charges the capacitor, which at a certain point in time starts the energy-saving lamp. Then a small flash occurs and the capacitor discharges again and the process repeats. This is why energy-saving light bulbs flicker.

Why does an energy-saving light bulb crack?

An extraneous sound effect occurs due to a malfunction of the power supply elements of the lamp itself. Let us remind you that it operates in pulse mode; if the power supply elements are faulty, an unpleasant chirping noise may occur.

The sound can also be of contact origin due to poor contact in the cartridge. If the effect is of contact origin, it is easily eliminated by restoration good contact. First of all, you need to tighten the lamp in the socket.

When positive result cannot be achieved in this way, it is necessary, with the switch turned off and the lamp unscrewed, to try to pull out the lamp tongue on which it sits in the socket. The last experiment is to replace the lamp with a new one or test it in a different socket.

When an energy-saving light bulb cracks, you need to check the lamp itself and the socket in which it is included.

What to do if the light bulb breaks

When an energy-saving lamp breaks, it is necessary to carefully collect the remains of the lamp, observing safety precautions. This is to ventilate the room so that the remaining mercury vapor evaporates. Carry out wet cleaning of the room using a soapy water solution.

When cleaning, you should use rubber gloves; after cleaning, wash your hands thoroughly with soap, removing all possible remnants of the lamp from the room.

How to recycle energy-saving light bulbs?

It must be remembered that fluorescent lamps are not thrown away like regular garbage, where they break down and everyone breathes mercury vapor, but recycling energy-saving light bulbs occurs by handing them over to the appropriate collection points.

Bottom line

There are a lot of problems with energy-saving fluorescent lamps. The most common are flashing, sound effects and may cause unpleasant odors. In order to prevent these phenomena, it is necessary to choose lamps from time-tested manufacturers that meet a large number of international standards (from five), and use energy-saving LED lamps.

Video: Energy saving lamp flashes. Causes and how to eliminate

Energy-saving lamps, which, by the way, are very expensive, designed to save us HUGE SUMMARY on electricity, suddenly burn out. Without bothering too much, I chalked it up to quality, and only when I replaced several dozen lamps in succession did this fact make me think and study the issue more deeply. What is the problem?

As it turns out, the lifespan of an energy-saving lamp depends less on the duration of burning, and more on the number of switches on and off. So, if you see that your lamp is blinking after being turned off, these are the very “on/off” switches that reduce its resource at enormous speed just when you don’t even suspect it. A month or two later - bang - and the lamp died.

So next I had to figure out why. lamp FLASHES, especially since in my irrepressible desire to save, I began to switch to EVEN MORE EXPENSIVE lamps - LED. The blinking of LED lamps does not lead to a decrease in their life, but it is much more noticeable and more annoying because they blink more often and brighter, and it is almost impossible to sleep in such a situation. And this is what I discovered...

What makes energy saving and LED bulbs flicker when the switch is off?

This phenomenon is not only annoying, but also damages the lamp, shortening its service life. As electricians write, blinking (periodic flashing) of energy-saving light bulbs when the switch is off occurs for the following reasons:

1. Illuminated switch: These are equipped with LED or neon lamp. When the switch is turned off, a current flows through the signal light circuit, which charges the electronic ballast capacitor (inside the energy-saving lamp) - the voltage reaches the operating threshold and the lamp flashes. The capacitor is instantly discharged, since the current flowing through the lamp is insufficient to normal operation energy-saving lamp and it goes out. The process repeats as the capacitor charges and discharges, endlessly...

Some manufacturers solved this problem by shunting the lamp, some by increasing the delay time for the “ignition” of the lamps.

2. Wiring defect. According to the rules, the switch must break phase wire. In fact, this is only in 50% of cases... In the good old days, when installing wiring, electricians used single-color wires that were produced by our industry (APPV2x2.5). The color of the wire does not affect performance, but it makes marking very difficult when installing junction boxes. It is because of this that in houses with “old” wiring, chandeliers and switches are incorrectly connected.

How to solve the problem of flickering energy-saving and LED lamps?

- if the switch has an indicator, cut it off (maybe not on all models of switches), or change the switch.
- if the switch is connected incorrectly (it does not break the phase circuit, but the zero circuit), then it is necessary to reconnect the connections in the distribution box...

You can solve the problem without removing the backlight or redoing the electrical wiring:

— by screwing one ordinary incandescent lamp into the chandelier. Moreover, it must be in one of the cartridges, which is turned off by a backlit key;
— bypassing the chandelier with a 0.05 μF*400V capacitor
- purchasing energy-saving lamps with so-called “soft start”...

The lights also blink when the switch is on.

If the lamps blink when the light is on, they blink (they go out completely and then flash), most likely this is a malfunction of the lamp - the end of its life. When the resource expires, a decrease in the brightness of the glow may also be observed.

Minor fluctuations in brightness can tell us about a malfunction in the power supply (poor contact, voltage fluctuations...)

There is also the “flickering” effect of ordinary cheap incandescent light bulbs. This happens for the following reasons:
option No. 1 in one chandelier - most likely the chandelier socket is faulty and requires replacement. (if not, then you will have to check the entire chain - chandelier - switch)

option No. 2 in more than one chandelier - (options No. 1 are very rare, in several rooms at once) most likely there is a loss of contacts in the distribution box - electrical panel circuit, or in the switchboard itself. Such malfunctions, as a rule, are emphasized when a powerful device is connected to the network (iron, kettle...)

This process is quite insidious. He can easily leave you without light at the most inopportune moment. In the worst case scenario, there is a fire...

Illuminated switches - they are so convenient! Especially when you need to get to the toilet at night! Therefore, in my case, I solved the problem by installing one incandescent lamp in the chandelier. I hope I can save some money now!

Repairing energy-saving lamps allows you to fully restore the functionality of light sources. To successfully repair a light bulb, you must adhere to a certain diagram, which indicates the principles of connection and operation of the lighting system.

Is it worth repairing energy-saving lamps?

The decision of whether or not to repair a lamp largely depends on the number of faulty light sources. If we're talking about about a single burnt out light bulb, you don’t need to deal with the labor-intensive repair process. When there are a lot of lamps, repairs make economic sense. From parts of several lamps, it is possible to assemble one that will be operational. It is known from practice that to assemble one light bulb you will need parts from 3-4 damaged light sources.

You should know! Any lamp is designed for a certain service life and is characterized by a limited switching reserve. The service life is most often indicated in hours (for example, 10 or 20 thousand hours).

When deciding to repair a lamp, you should think about the upcoming costs. You will have to spend money on buying parts (if they cannot be taken from light bulbs that have burned out), on a trip to the store or to the market. In addition, the process of searching for reasons is quite labor-intensive, so time should also be taken into account.

Note! Repaired lamps often have a defect: the lighting is connected with some delay.

Operating principle and diagram

Energy saving lamps include several components:

• flask with electrodes;
• threaded or pin base;
• electronic ballast.

Energy-saving light bulbs use a built-in ballast. Thanks to this, the small size of the device is achieved.

The principle of operation of “housekeepers” is as follows:

1. As a result of the voltage applied, the electrodes heat up. As a result, electrons are released.
2. In a flask filled with gas (inert gas or mercury vapor), the interaction of elementary particles with mercury atoms occurs. A plasma appears, producing ultraviolet radiation.
3. However, ultraviolet radiation is invisible to the human eye. Therefore, the design of the device contains a special substance (luminophor) that absorbs ultraviolet radiation and instead emits ordinary light.

Connection diagram for an 11 W energy saving light bulb:

Causes of light bulb failure

Before repairing the lamp, it must be disassembled to determine the cause of the breakdown.

The best way to solve a problem is to take systematic action. Therefore, we will carry out the work in a clear sequence:

1. We prepare a set of tools.
2. We dismantle the lamp.
3. We look for and fix problems.
4. Reassemble the lamp in reverse order.

To perform the repair you will need the following tools:

• flat screwdriver;
• multimeter;
• a 25–30 W soldering iron, as well as a soldering kit.

We carry out dismantling in this order:

1. First, we detach the flask from the base. The operation should be performed with extreme caution to maintain the integrity of the base. The parts of the light bulb are connected to each other with latches. To disassemble the device, it is recommended to use a screwdriver with a thin but wide blade. One of the latches is usually located where the technical data of the light bulb is indicated. We point the screwdriver into the gap and gently turn the halves apart. Next, we move the screwdriver in a circle until the lamp is divided into two parts, and then we unfasten the base and bulb.
2. Disconnect the wires going to the filaments. Two pairs of wires are attached to the bulb (they are filaments), to test for serviceability, they need to be disconnected. The threads are usually not soldered, but wound on wire pins in several turns. In this regard, detaching the threads is usually not difficult.
3. We check the lamp filaments for functionality. The flask most often contains a pair of spirals with a resistance of 10–15 ohms. We check using a multimeter. If the threads are not damaged, then the problem most likely lies in the ballast. And vice versa: if the threads are damaged, the ballast is operational.

Note! It is important to act carefully so as not to accidentally break the wiring coming from the light bulb base.

Troubleshooting

One of possible reasons device failure - short circuit and breakdown. First, we inspect the board for visible external damage. You need to inspect the diagram from both sides. External damage includes areas that are deformed or blackened by burning.

Advice! Even with obvious external damage, it is recommended to check the entire circuit.

Fuse

Finding the fuse is easy. This design component combines the base and the board. The fuse is treated with an insulator on top and connected to a resistor.

To check the functionality of the fuse, you will need a multimeter. We place one of the contact probes in the area with the fuse, and connect the other to the board. We measure resistance. If everything is in order, this indicator will be approximately 10 ohms. In the case of a burnt-out lamp, the multimeter will determine one.

If the cause of the failure is the fuse, it must be removed. You need to “bite off” the fuse closer to the resistor housing. This approach will enable trouble-free soldering of the new element.

Flask

Before checking the board, you should look at the condition of the electrodes in the bulb. A burnt thread should be replaced. If the same thread is not available, a resistor with the same resistance level can be used. We solder the resistor in parallel with the burnt spiral. We also check the functionality of all semiconductors on the board.

Transistors and resistors

To check the condition of the transistors, first remove them from the circuit. This must be done, since the p-n junctions are shunted in the transformer winding. If a breakdown is detected, the transistor can be replaced with the same one with the same parameters. Moreover, the dimensions of the transistor housing may be different, but the performance characteristics must be identical.

We check the resistance of resistors in the same way - using a multimeter. Rated resistance indicators are usually indicated on the device body. If there is another (working) light bulb, we compare the operation of all elements by ringing them one by one.

Capacitors

The procedure for checking the capacitor is the same as in the case of the previously mentioned components. If there is a malfunction, this element must be replaced.

A faulty capacitor can be easily recognized by its deformation. Usually there is swelling and visible streaks. A capacitor failure is the most common reason failure of inexpensive Chinese-made lamps.

Based on the measurements taken, we draw a number of conclusions:

1. If the filament breaks, the ballast is most likely working.
2. If the thread burns out, it can be restored.
3. If everything is in order with the lamp bulb, we are talking about a malfunction of the ballast.

Ballast repair

First of all, the ballast must be inspected for burnt-out components. Problems are indicated by swollen containers, deformed transistor housings, and traces of burning. When replacing the indicated elements does not restore the lamp's functionality, you will need to check the entire circuit.

In Fig. Figure 3 shows a typical diagram of a ballast. It is used, with minor modifications, in all ballasts.

The symbols in the diagram are deciphered in the following figure.

Coil L1 and capacitance C1 act as a noise filter. In low-quality Chinese products, a jumper is installed instead of a coil.

Coil L2 is equipped with a certain number of turns - from 250 to 350. They are wound with a wire with a diameter of 0.2 millimeters on a ferrite core. The part is made in the shape of the letter W and looks like a small transformer.

Transformer T1 has from 3 to 9 turns. The most commonly used wire is 0.3 mm in diameter. The ferrite ring acts as a magnetic conductor.

The FY1-0.5 A fuse is usually not included in Chinese products. In such cases, a low-resistance resistance (R1) acts as a fuse. This part burns out most often. Replacing it rarely restores the lamp's functionality, since a blown fuse is a consequence, not the cause of the problem.

Ballast Troubleshooting

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. We change the resistor-fuse. Problems with ballast are almost always associated with a burnt out resistor.
2. We are looking for faults. Most often, containers fail, so we start our search with them. Using a soldering iron, solder capacitors C3-C5. Next, we test them with a multimeter. If there is a slight glow of the bulb in the area of ​​the filaments, then capacitance C5 almost certainly needs to be replaced. It refers to an oscillatory circuit that is involved in creating a high-voltage pulse that causes a discharge. If the capacitance is burnt out, the lamp will not be able to enter operating mode, although there will be power supply to the spiral, which will manifest itself as a glow.
3. If no problems are found with the capacitors, we check the diodes in the bridge. We carry out testing without removing diodes from the board. If at least one of the diodes is faulty, there is a high probability of breaking through capacitance C2. A swollen C2 is detected - this is almost certainly one or several bridge diodes that have burned out.
4. Let's assume that the elements described above remain operational, then we check the transistors. In this case, you cannot do without desoldering, since the piping will not allow you to get accurate results when taking measurements.
5. When the source of the problem is found, we check the functioning of the light source by energizing the base. We perform this operation carefully, since life-threatening voltage is supplied to the board.
6. As soon as the lamp is working, turn off the power supply and begin the assembly process.

Repair for burnt thread

Repair work with the thread entails the work of the ballast in emergency mode. This means that if a serious overload occurs, the ballast will fail. In the absence of overloads, the lamp usually continues to function uninterruptedly for 9–18 months. The service life depends on the parts used in the circuit, as well as their quality.

If only one thread burns out, we shunt it with a resistance. How to do this is shown in the figure.

To create a shunt resistance (RSh), it is recommended to install a resistor whose resistance is equal to the second (undamaged) filament. However, this approach is not completely reliable, since we measured the resistance of the “cold” thread. If you install an equivalent resistor, there is a risk that it will soon burn out. Therefore, it is better to install a resistor with a nominal resistance of 22 Ohms and a power of 1 W or more.

Assembling an energy-saving lamp

Before starting the assembly process, we check the “housekeeper” so that it does not turn out that the already assembled light bulb does not function. After connecting the wiring, screw the lamp into the socket (turning off the power supply in advance). A lighted and non-flickering lamp indicates the correctness of the previous actions.

We determine in advance whether the electronic ballast will fit into its niche in the housing. If necessary, bend the resistance capacitors. At the same time, we make sure that there is no short circuit. Next, we assemble the lamp and glue the torn elements (if any after careless dismantling).

Prevention

Breakdowns of 220 V energy-saving lamps occur due to the following reasons:

1. Short circuit. The source of the problem lies either in a manufacturing defect or in insufficient heat removal. Overheating of a light bulb or ballast circuit occurs when the insulating layer is damaged, leading to a short circuit. Reliable ventilation and improved heat transfer can help avoid this development of events.
2. Breakdown of the ballast. The problem is usually a manufacturing defect, when the manufacturer strives to produce the cheapest possible product. Significant changes in mains voltage also lead to breakdowns. If the problem is differences, it is recommended to install a stabilizer at the entrance to the room.
3. Burnt out filament. It is impossible to prevent it from burning out. If such a problem occurs, there is nothing left to do but replace or repair the light bulb.

Upgrading an energy-saving lamp

If desired, you can give the lamp a second life by upgrading it. To do this, we place an NTC thermistor between the filaments. This element allows you to limit the starting current. As a result, the risk of filament burnout is reduced.

An important point: the thermistor should not be installed next to the ballast, as in this case it will overheat and fail.

Repairing an energy-saving light bulb with your own hands is a very painstaking job, but quite feasible for anyone. Repairing a damaged light bulb is much cheaper than buying a new one, especially if we are talking about many damaged light sources.